termini, the central train station in rome, was a little overwhelming at first, but i managed to buy a ticket and catch the right train and, eventually, find my seat for the ride up to umbria --- rode back to rome with the girls in the rental car, so i got to see something of the italian countryside through the fog and rain
after a late lunch in the ghetto (with some of those scary hasidic jews), frances arranged a tour of palazzo massimo alle terme by prof. enrico bruschini, former fine art conservator and official historian for the american embassy in rome --- it was, in his words, "the cherry over the cake" --- 2,000 yr old frescoes and the most delicately delicious plaster work i've ever seen --- i was totally verklempt even before we got to "the boxer" --- i was so blown away i forgot to photograph it
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